Author: Candy Goodchild

Today we cycled 60 km from last night’s accommodation, along the back roads. We hadn’t long left the hotel and the heavens opened (so not many photos). It was quite nice cycling in warm rain.

Once again we made our way through the towering coconut trees, weaving through the windy roads, with colourful impressive houses on either side, intermingled with tiny shacks right next door.

There were numerous roadside shops selling cheap plastic buckets, swings, brooms or all sorts of fruit. Then, as we made our way towards the coast it was not uncommon to see people selling fish, covered with flies, just on the floor on the side of the road.

We turned a corner and I smelt it before I saw it; there was the Arabian sea again! Waves gently crashing in on the sandy beach. Idyllic. After a short stop to take a few photos we continued on. We came across a street practically closed because there were so many women with signs – Someone said they were protesting to “clean up Kerala”. The amount of rubbish lying around has surprised me since we arrived.

A little while later we stopped outside a very impressive house to regroup. The owner of the house came out and invited us all inside. We were on a rather tight schedule to get to the ferry on time, so unfortunately we had to decline.

After catching a ferry we cycled on to an amazing sandy beach and had some lunch (curry/rice/probata bread) overlooking the sea, with the breeze cooling us down. We had almost a couple of hours relaxing there before we had to continue our ride. Those of us who had taken swimming costumes spent a while in the sea. It was DIVINE – perfect temperature, and just enough of a wave to have a splash. I could have stayed in there for hours!

We cycled alongside the beach for another 10km or so, but for much of it we were behind the levees; they need the defences as in monsoon season it often floods. The roads were terrible, more pothole than road on some places. Through sections there was so much sand that had washed up that it made it difficult to cycle.

We then had 15km of motorway cycling. Let’s just say its nothing like motorways in the UK! You still get people on the road. Anything goes. A lady from the team was cycling behind me and said called out, “Gosh Candy, That was SO close! Not even inches, more like centimeters!” A tuctuc had over taken me RATHER close by. I have been constantly reminding myself that I have angels at my side on this journey.

Another ferry ride brought us to Fort Kochi, where we saw our first white tourists. It felt odd seeing white faces other than those in our group!

We are now at our hotel for the night – we had to get inside quick because the place was teaming with mozzies, and its currently feeding time.

Our team is now down by 5 as we said goodbye to the Benenden crew at lunchtime. They are off to Goa to visit El Shaddai. We are currently waiting for our bags to arrive; the coach couldn’t get on the ferry, so had an extra 15km diversion. In India that has the potential to take hours!

So, I’ve a little time to kill, then it will be dinner and then time to head to bed in preparation for another day….

Total cycling distance today was approx 96km

Today we headed out after breakfast and cycled around the back roads of Kerala. A leisurely ride, mostly flat, we cycled through coconut and banana trees. In Kerala they apparently spend all their money on their houses. So a lot of the buildings we passed were like brightly coloured mansions. But then there is also the opposite extreme; absolute squalor.

Wherever you go though the people are always so friendly, even those who look like they have a scowl on their face. If you wave and give them a smile you are sure to receive a toothy grin on a wobbling head in return. Yes, just like in the movies.

We saw a sign saying “beach” and almost instantly could smell it, that salty fishy beach smell. I got all excited, I was going to see the Indian ocean, only to have my excitement crushed as I was told it was in fact the Arabian sea. Never mind though, it was at least a sandy beach! Unfortunately, due to the cleanliness (or otherwise) we couldn’t swim in the water.

From there we made our way to see the temple elephants. If people could afford it they offered elephants as sacrifices to the temple. The elephants are kept in the elephant “sanctuary” … But in fact sanctuary is the last word I’d use to describe it. There are about 70 elephants there, chained up so they literally can’t move. Front right and back left feet chained in place so all they can do is sway. I felt so sorry for the poor animals, what a horrible existence. I think our guide was trying to make us feel better by telling us they are actually really well looked after, taken for two walks a day, bathed, fed etc… But having seen them a couple days ago in their natural environment, his attempts fell on deaf ears. They don’t accept elephants any more, so at least that is something!

From there we had a few hills to get to where Vishnu told us the history of Christianity in India. He took us to a place where there is a rock upon which it is said St. Thomas used to pray. He came to Kerala around 36AD and started the first churches in India.

Apparently, years after Thomas died, someone was sharpening his knife on the rock and blood poured out. We then visited the catholic church and a number of people on the tour commented on how peaceful they felt in there.

A 12 km ride back to the hotel took us to about 60km, I think? We all got freshened up before a walk to the Guruvayoor temple. We sat near a couple of statues of some famous elephant and vishnu (a Hindu god) while Vishnu (our tour guide) tried to explain to us the complexities of the Hindu faith.

Walking around the outside of the temple we saw hundreds of people queueing, for over 3 hours, so that they could go and have five seconds to bow before a statue of Krishna?!?

We also saw girls performing traditional dance in bright glittering costumes.

Back to the hotel again, and getting ready for a looong day tomorrow. Its a 6:45 start with breakfast, 60km before lunch, a stop at the beach, then another 30+km before we reach our accommodation for the night!

Time to sort my bags out… again!

Oh, I’ve not seem them yet but Janet and Ian are out of hospital. Apparently Janet has her arm in a sling, but Ian has a fracture and is in a cast.

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Don’t forget, we’re raising money for, El Shaddai and Bereaved Parent Support. Click on them to find out more and then click here to give to these two worthwhile organisations.

I’m writing this on the coach ready to be sent off when we get somewhere with WiFi.

Well, let’s just say that today didn’t exactly go as planned.

After such an arduous day yesterday I slept really well last night; at just over 7 hours it was easily my best night thus far. My legs felt a little bit tight this morning, but surprisingly not too bad. Still, a good stretching session was in order before we left, just to make sure.

The day started off amazingly. An almost leisurely start with breakfast at 6:45 before we headed off all kitted out for the cooler mountain air. Our hotel was the highest hotel in Ooty. Down. Down. Down we went. Gravity was on our side today! The further we descended, the warmer is got, so before too long we had to stop and shed a few layers.

We descended from the high pine forests, through the eucalyptus plantations, made our way through the tea plantations and stopped for a tasty (& cheap) lunch of Kerala rice and curries, followed by fresh pineapple slices.

The views were stunning and I tried to take some videos with my camera as I cycled along. Some sections were really bumpy and the mini-tripod fixed to my bike didn’t look very secure, so I may just have videos of sky or road.

We were due to cycle 10km of undulating hills before a last 20km of downhill again. About half way through the hilly section, we were waiting at the top of a hill for the rest of the team to catch up with us. A car with some locals pulled up next to us and they informed us that there had been a cycle accident further back; a lady had hurt her arm. Deepak (our guide from Explore), Nich (who had the first aid kit) and Rachel (by far the strongest cyclist) headed back.

Before long the support vehicle arrived to tell us all to come back. One of the ladies saw a bump in the road too late, braked, and flew over her handle bars. Her husband, who was close behind, then crashes into her.
By the time we rejoined the rest of the group the ambulance was already there! Super impressive.

So that put pay to the rest of our days ride – cycling through the last part of the descent through the bamboo forest into the state of Kerala. It’s not the best journey on a coach, being very windy, and a number of the team were feeling rather rough by the end of it!

So the two injured, one of the leaders, Matthew (who is Indian), and Di went in the ambulance with them to hospital to get checked over. The rest of us waited at a roadside shop until we knew what was happening.

The casualties received first aid and were subsequently transferred to another, better hospital 80 km closer to tonight’s hotel. After a 3 hour drive We then spent the next goodness knows how many hours at a tea shop waiting for the others to join us from the hospital. After insurance was finally sorted out, luggage was taken to the injured riders. We were told that one had a dislocated elbow and the other a fractured clavicle and some deep cuts requiring suturing. They will be in hospital at least until tomorrow. We still have at least another hour driving (it’s already nearly 9pm), I’m hungry and tired.

So, a stunning start to the day finished on a low. Now I’m just looking forward to arriving at our hotel, having a shower and then getting into bed.

My total cycling distance today was probably only about 60 kilometres

We were told that today would be an amazing day as we ascend to reach the Nilgiri Hills and the beautiful hill station of Ootacamund.

Ooty, as it is known, served as a summer capital for the British who named it ‘Queen of Hill-Stations’ because of its stunning beauty and spring-like climate. Despite its location in the tropics, in stark contrast with most of South India, Ooty generally features pleasantly mild conditions throughout the year. Temperatures are relatively consistent throughout the year; with average high temperatures ranging from about 17–20 °C (63–68 °F) and average low temperatures between approximately 5–12 °C (41–54 °F).

The ride to Ooty takes us up, and I quote, “steep ascent” to reach the town. So, defibrillators at the ready!

 
As we set off on this epic bike ride we were informed that it was 3km to the start of the climb. What we were not told was that 3km was all up-hill! As we cycled the winding mountain road through the 36 hairpin bends the going got harder and harder. It was seriously intense and a ridiculously difficult ride. I was sure that if people had known how bad it was going to be they would have sponsored me more!
A lot more!

With every turn the views were great, and they improved with the altitude… but tragically my physical state was deteriorating and I was in less of a state to enjoy the views as they got better. If it wasn’t for the encouragement from rest of the team, I don’t think I would have made it to the top.

About 100m from the top my chest started closing up – I needed my inhaler. I was so close to calling it a day, getting off and walking the remainder of the way. But I managed to calm down, stop panicking and breath again. Finally we made it to the top!

From here we were told that it would be mostly flat, with a few ups and downs for the next 12km. That was a lie. We still had another 300m to climb! In all we climbed 1481m over 26km.

After a buffet lunch at the hotel the afternoon was free to explore the town at a leisurely pace. Situated in the cool climate of the Nilgiri Hills, it gave us a break from the hotter plains below.

At least it should be an easier day tomorrow; we can’t go up hill any further from here. Oh, hang on, what’s this…?

Our total cycling distance today was approx 26 kilometres
That makes the running total roughly 157km.

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We’re raising money for, El Shaddai and Bereaved Parent Support. Click on them to find out more and then click here to give to these two worthwhile organisations.

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