Experiencing laid-back Kerala

Today we headed out after breakfast and cycled around the back roads of Kerala. A leisurely ride, mostly flat, we cycled through coconut and banana trees. In Kerala they apparently spend all their money on their houses. So a lot of the buildings we passed were like brightly coloured mansions. But then there is also the opposite extreme; absolute squalor.

Cycling Kerala

Wherever you go though the people are always so friendly, even those who look like they have a scowl on their face. If you wave and give them a smile you are sure to receive a toothy grin on a wobbling head in return. Yes, just like in the movies.

We saw a sign saying “beach” and almost instantly could smell it, that salty fishy beach smell. I got all excited, I was going to see the Indian ocean, only to have my excitement crushed as I was told it was in fact the Arabian sea. Never mind though, it was at least a sandy beach! Unfortunately, due to the cleanliness (or otherwise) we couldn’t swim in the water.

Standing in the sea
They weren’t expecting that wave!

From there we made our way to see the temple elephants. If people could afford it they offered elephants as sacrifices to the temple. The elephants are kept in the elephant “sanctuary” … But in fact sanctuary is the last word I’d use to describe it. There are about 70 elephants there, chained up so they literally can’t move. Front right and back left feet chained in place so all they can do is sway. I felt so sorry for the poor animals, what a horrible existence. I think our guide was trying to make us feel better by telling us they are actually really well looked after, taken for two walks a day, bathed, fed etc… But having seen them a couple days ago in their natural environment, his attempts fell on deaf ears. They don’t accept elephants any more, so at least that is something!

Elephant in chains

st thomas stoneFrom there we had a few hills to get to where Vishnu told us the history of Christianity in India. He took us to a place where there is a rock upon which it is said St. Thomas used to pray. He came to Kerala around 36AD and started the first churches in India.

Apparently, years after Thomas died, someone was sharpening his knife on the rock and blood poured out. We then visited the catholic church and a number of people on the tour commented on how peaceful they felt in there.

catholicchurch

Vishnu, the tour guide and the god
Vishnu too
A 12 km ride back to the hotel took us to about 60km, I think? We all got freshened up before a walk to the Guruvayoor temple. We sat near a couple of statues of some famous elephant and vishnu (a Hindu god) while Vishnu (our tour guide) tried to explain to us the complexities of the Hindu faith.

Walking around the outside of the temple we saw hundreds of people queueing, for over 3 hours, so that they could go and have five seconds to bow before a statue of Krishna?!?

We also saw girls performing traditional dance in bright glittering costumes.

Traditional dance

Back to the hotel again, and getting ready for a looong day tomorrow. Its a 6:45 start with breakfast, 60km before lunch, a stop at the beach, then another 30+km before we reach our accommodation for the night!

Time to sort my bags out… again!

Oh, I’ve not seem them yet but Janet and Ian are out of hospital. Apparently Janet has her arm in a sling, but Ian has a fracture and is in a cast.


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